19 January

Today I put the mock-up together.  Much to my astonishment, it actually needed very little alteration!  The bodice length is perfect (I did add about 2" to the pattern last time I made up that dress, and just went with the same length this time) and the melding of the two patterns worked better than I could have dreamed.  I had to make just a few minor adjustments - I changed the curve of the princess seam from the bust point to the armscye, took in the seams a bit in the front, and took a tiny tuck (1/4", tapering to nothing at the side seams) out of the back length.  I only had to try it on twice!  I think this is a first.  

(I drafted my sister in to take photos)

Honestly I'm slightly worried because my projects never go this smoothly!  

This is the tuck in the back section, stitched down.

I had my brother (artistic) draw the V-neck on the back while I was wearing it - I just told him where to make it end, and the basic shape, and he "freehanded" it on me.  Then I drew the front V myself, "unlacing" the centre front seam so I could fold the extra fabric down and see how it looked.  I'm deviating from my inspiration in making the neckline smooth, leaving out the "jags" of the original - I think a smooth, un-fussy line will suit me better, and also be less distinctive and therefore more re-wearable!

Here the neckline is roughly pinned down, and the alterations to the princess seams are pinned as well.

I didn't want to take the toile off; I loved the way the skirt skims, then flares; I love the flattering princess lines of the bodice.  I like V-necks.

Basically I like feeling like a princess.  Even if I'm only wearing a pink-and-white floral toile!  I can't wait until I get it fully made up.

I marked all the changes on the toile with a sharpie, then took it apart to make my pattern pieces from it.  (Well, I only took half of it apart - since it's symmetrical, and I made the same adjustments on both sides, I didn't need all of it in order to draw the patterns.

Alterations marked and stitched, ready for a second try-on.

I use non-fusible interfacing to make my patterns - it's sturdy, and it's see-through, so you can just spread it over whatever you're making, and tracy.  Easy :)  It wasn't quite wide enough though for the serious flare of the lower skirt, so I had to "piece" it together, marking on the toile the corners that wouldn't fit, then tracing them somewhere else and attaching them to the main pattern.

Yes, I used book-ends to hold down the interfacing!

I've decided to call this the "Rosemary" dress, in honour of Rosemary Clooney whose gown is my inspiration.  So I labeled all my pattern pieces this way.

After that I dug out a length of broadcloth that I've been supposed to be making Poet's Shirts with for my family, and laid out the pattern pieces on it, trying to figure out how much fabric I need.  I suspect that I could get away with eight yards, but I plan on buying 9 or even 10 if they've got that much in stock - I'd rather be safe than sorry, and I can always make a Regency Spencer or pelisse, or even a modern jacket, out of the leftovers if there are any.  (This is always assuming they have 10 yards in the shop!)  And I have a 50% off coupon, which makes it much more affordable.

Tomorrow I plan to go and buy all my materials: 10 yards of black cotton velvet, 8 yards of lining (it's amazing how much difference in the layout it makes when you don't have to worry about nap!), an invisible zipper, lots of black thread, and some netting for the built-in petticoat.  I'll also probably buy some satin ribbon to bind the edges of the net, and possibly hem tape.  I want this to be *very* well finished and professional looking.